Khan Tengri (7010m), Tien Shan, Kasakhstan, July/August 2003
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The Danish North Side Expedition: Per Bager, Jette Heitman, Carsten Engedal & Keld Laursen

Start from the bottom and move up through the pictures

(61) Our helicopter out of Basecamp is approaching... [photo: Carsten Engedal]. (60) Having the final breakfast in Basecamp. The food was surprisingly good & varied (and no stomach problems during a month!) . The support staff in Basecamp were simply fab [photo: Keld Laursen].
(59) Dismantling our site at Camp 2 [photo: Carsten Engedal]. (58) Camp 2 seen from the route up to Chapayev North [photo: Keld Laursen].
(57) Carsten absailing down Chapayev North [photo: Keld Laursen]. (56) Carsten Engedal descending the route from Chapayev North to Camp 2 [photo: Keld Laursen].
(55) Keld very slowly approaching the summit of Chapayev North (6095m) [photo: Keld Laursen]. (54) Keld before departure from Camp 3 [photo: Carsten Engedal].
(53) August 11th. Carsten is ready to descend the mountain. However, first we must climb Chapayev North :- ( [photo: Keld Laursen]. (52) Good old snow caves again! [photo: Keld Laursen].
(51) The West Ridge further down [photo: Keld Laursen]. (50) Carsten Engedal descending the West Ridge. Chapayev North in the background [photo: Keld Laursen].
(49) Keld Laursen at the "dome" summit (7010m) [photo: Carsten Engedal]. (48) A view down over the North Inylchek Glacier. Chapayev North in the foreground [photo: Keld Laursen].
(47) One more summit photo, yes! [photo: Mathias Schmitt, French climber]. (46) August 10th. at around 1.30pm. Finally at the summit -- at the surveying mark. Marks solid rock in 6995 meters altitude. There is a higher snow dome at the summit, so one can go up to 7010 meters altitude [photo: Mathias Schmitt, French climber].
(45) Keld Laursen slowly approaching the summit [photo: Carsten Engedal]. (44) Two Russians just below the last difficult rock step in about 6800 meters altitude [photo: Keld Laursen].
(43) A view of the West Ridge from above [photo: Carsten Engedal]. (42) Keld coming up the West Ridge [photo: Carsten Engedal].
(41) Carsten in the morning of the summit day on his way up Khan Tengri's West Ridge [photo: Keld Laursen]. (40) Carsten in front of Chapayev Central -- approximately 6300m high [photo: Keld Laursen].
(39) Keld's back in the snow cave (Camp 3, 5800m) [photo: Keld Laursen]. (38) Carsten and Keld at the summit of Chapayev North (6095m) . [photo: Korean team member].
(37) Keld Laursen at the summit of Chapayev North (6095m) . Has not quite recovered yet! [photo: Carsten Engedal]. (36) Carsten Engedal negotiating the route to Camp 3 in approximately 5800 meters altitude [photo: Keld Laursen].
(35) Carsten Engedal below the rock band on the route to Camp 3 [photo: Keld Laursen]. (34) Per on the route up to Camp 3 (and hence Chapayev North) shortly before he took the decision of turning around in order to fetch Jette in Camp 2, so that they jointly could make Chapayev North (6095m) [photo: Carsten Engedal].
(33) Keld is giving a hand with setting up the tent of the English team, after they have come down from Camp 3 [photo: Carsten Engedal]. (32) Yes, we were happy with our camp site! [photo: Carsten Engedal].
(31) Carsten clearing the camp site for snow [photo: Keld Laursen]. (30) Jette arrives in Camp 2 [photo: Carsten Engedal].
(29) The West Ridge of Khan Tengri before sunset [photo: Keld Laursen]. (28) Keld in the small Terra Nova Voyager set up in Camp 2 [photo: Carsten Engedal].
(27) Carsten in Camp 2, Khan Tengri's West Ridge in the background [photo: Keld Laursen]. (26) Keld in Camp 2 (5400m) , Khan Tengri's West Ridge in the background [photo: Carsten Engedal].
(25) Looks windy at the summit of Khan Tengri (ask the Dutch and English teams, which were there at the time!) -- but surely beautiful [photo: Carsten Engedal]. (24) Some good (!) ropes on the route. Would "voices" from Bornholm, Denmark accept the knots? ;-) [photo: Carsten Engedal].
(23) Carsten Engedal resting in Lower Camp 1 [photo: Keld Laursen]. (22) Keld Laursen before arriving in Lower Camp 1 [photo: Carsten Engedal].
(21) Carsten in Basecamp before setting out for making our deposit in Camp 2 [photo: Keld Laursen]. (20) Jette and Per before setting out for Camp 2 [photo: Keld Laursen].
(19) Upper Camp 1 with Alex and Sasha in the background [photo: Keld Laursen]. (18) The three compulsory daily walkie-talkie calls to Isa in Basecamp has to be attended to [photo: Carsten Engedal].
(17) Carsten Engedal in Upper Camp 1 (4600m) [photo: Keld Laursen]. (16) Keld after having recieved one missing piece of luggage one week late (what a relief!!) . The equipment is ready! [photo: Carsten Engedal].
(15) The route follows the North ridge of Chapayev North (to the right of the centre, two intermediate camps) to the summit of Chapayev North (6095m) . Subsequently, one has to descend to the lowest point of the col (in the centre, 5800m) . From there one follows the West Ridge of Khan Tengri (more or less) up to the summit. [photo: Keld Laursen]. (14) Determined Koreans setting out for Camp 1 [photo: Keld Laursen].
(13) The Korean team is holding some kind of parade (!) before their departure for Camp 1 in 4600m [photo: Carsten Engedal]. (12) Keld Laursen in front of the new home in Basecamp situated in 4000 meters altitude [photo: Carsten Engedal].
(11) Unloading II [photo: Keld Laursen]. (10) Unloading I [photo: Keld Laursen].
(9) The North Inylchek Basecamp seen from the helicopter [photo: Keld Laursen]. (8) The view from the helicopter is absolutely amazing! [photo: Jette Heitman].
(7) Loading the helicopter before our trip up to the North Inylchek Basecamp [photo: Keld Laursen]. (6) Per Bager in Karkara Basecamp (2250m) [photo: Keld Laursen].
(5) Having dinner in 3300 meters altitude [photo: Carsten Engedal]. (4) Jette Heitman and Keld Laursen during the trek [photo: Carsten Engedal].
(3) Carsten crossing a river. The action has started! [photo: Keld Laursen]. (2) Per and Jette in the beginning of the acclimatisation trek near Karkara, Kasakhstan [photo: Keld Laursen].
(1) Applying for Kasakh visas in Almaty Airport. From the left, Carsten Engedan, Per Bager and Jette Heitman [photo: Keld Laursen].


Keld Laursen, kl.ivs@cbs.dk
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